Brown shrimp: the North Sea's little treasure
They are tiny, discreetly coloured and demand extraordinary patience to peel. Yet a handful of brown shrimp can transform a plate. Their briny, almost nutty flavour is one of the Belgian coast's most delicate signatures.
Fishing close to shore
Brown shrimp live in the North Sea's shallow waters and sandy seabeds. Coastal trawlers catch them from ports including Nieuwpoort, Ostend and Zeebrugge. Raw, they are a translucent grey; the pinkish-brown colour appears during cooking.
To preserve this fragile product, shrimp are traditionally sorted and cooked aboard soon after the nets are hauled in. Immediate cooking sets their texture and flavour. After that, freshness remains a race against time.
The cost of peeling
Much of the work is hidden in peeling. The head and shell must be removed without crushing the tiny flesh. The yield is low: an impressive quantity of whole shrimp ultimately provides a modest amount of meat.
Hand-peeling was once a family activity on the coast. Today, supply chains can be much longer, but artisans and local initiatives are trying to preserve peeling close to the fishing grounds. The difference is felt chiefly in freshness and texture.
Three Belgian classics
Tomate-crevettes relies on simplicity: a ripe tomato, brown shrimp, mayonnaise and little embellishment. The shrimp croquette wraps them in a creamy filling before very crisp frying. Finally, an omelette or a sole garnished with shrimp shows how a small quantity can flavour an entire dish.
In each recipe, shrimp should remain the focus of flavour. Too much spice or too powerful a sauce would overwhelm their briny character. A squeeze of lemon, parsley and a balanced mayonnaise are often enough.
A small product, a great luxury
Brown shrimp are sometimes called the caviar of the North Sea. The comparison comes not from their appearance, but from their intensity and the work needed to make them ready to eat.
They will appeal to those who enjoy clear marine flavours without the texture of a large crustacean. At the table, a dry witbier, gueuze or lively white wine accompanies their brininess well. The true luxury, however, is eating them very fresh, close to the harbour.
