Chicory gratin: why this Belgian classic divides opinion
For some, chicory gratin is the perfect family dinner. For others, it recalls unwelcome bitterness at school. Few Belgian dishes prompt such an immediate reaction. It all centres on a white vegetable born of remarkable Brussels expertise.
A vegetable shaped in darkness
Belgian chicory is produced by forcing chicory roots away from the light. Without sunlight, the leaves remain white, tightly packed and tender. This cultivation developed in north-eastern Brussels in the mid-19th century.
Its precise origin retains some uncertainty. The gardener François Breziers is often associated with its development around 1840, while another account tells of an accidental discovery by a grower. What is beyond doubt is Brussels' role in the product's emergence and spread.
Why is it bitter?
Chicory naturally contains bitter compounds. Their intensity depends on variety, cultivation, freshness and cooking. Modern chicons are often milder than those many Belgians remember from childhood.
Careful cooking balances that bitterness. Chicory can be gently braised to release some water and concentrate its sugars. If put into the dish too wet, it dilutes the béchamel and makes a watery gratin.
The gratin as a balancing act
Each cooked chicory head is wrapped in a slice of ham, covered with white sauce and topped with cheese. The ham brings salt, the béchamel softness and the gratin toasted notes. These three elements do not hide the vegetable: they answer its bitterness.
Success depends on proportion. Too much sauce and the chicory disappears. Too little and the dish becomes dry. Gruyère, Emmental or a hard Belgian cheese should form a golden crust without making the sauce greasy.
A dish that says something about our tastes
People who enjoy chicory gratin generally like creamy dishes with a genuine bitter counterpoint. Those who dislike it can sometimes be won over by small, fresh chicons, well drained and lightly caramelised before assembly.
A fairly dry blond beer or a saison works well with the ham and cuts through the richness of the béchamel. With mashed potatoes, the dish becomes a complete meal. Perhaps it divides opinion because it does not seek easy approval: it embraces a flavour we sometimes learn to love.
